Saturday, August 24, 2013

Mexico City - Day 2 - the edges of Xochimilco on foot

The town of Xochimilco is one of the last remaining examples of the system of canals and chinampas (floating gardens) that were once prevalent around the Valley of Mexico.  As Mexico City grew, the canals that once fomed the transit system of Tenochtitlan were filled and as the city expanded further the lake system that surrounded it was drained.

On our fist day in Xochimilco, Dave and I arrived by el tren ligero (light rail) connecting from the main Metro system.  Going off the tourist path, we hopped off the train a few stops before the terminus in Xochimilco to explore some of the edges of the canal in the proximity of recent developments.


Vestiges of the canal system still appear in the surrounding neighborhoods that have been filled: long alleys off the main streets, similar to the irrigation canals off of the major canals.
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The first impression is not the most picturesque.  Work crews were out in full force cleaning up this section of the canals.  The adjacent road replaced the transportation function of this canal, but extensive maintenance seems to be required to keep this canal clear of overgrowth.  


Intersections with other canals reveal the lush interior of this section.  Completely different from what is on the other side of the road:

Continuing on, the residences got noticeably more upscale, with more elaborate crossings over the canal.




Eventually, we meandered to one of Mexico City's largest open bodies of water: the Olympic rowing course from the 1968 games.  

Surrounded by a well used walking/biking path the course seems removed from the city.  Some livestock help reinforce the agricultural roots of this area. 


Upon reaching one end of the 2000m course, the town of Xochimilco is close by, but separated by the Cuemanco canal.  Luckily, there is a way across.  The trajinera ride takes about a minute, and connects the numerous playing fields and sports clubs around the Olympic course to the town.


Once across the canal, the narrow streets and alleys reflect a scale of living not suited for cars.  The ends of roads frequently end up back at the canals which were formerly the only way to move goods and people around.  




Back across the canal, past the sports clubs and soccer fields, is the Cuemanco embarcadero.  Even though it is somewhat removed from much of the city, it is lively on a Friday afternoon, as both a way to get onto the canals and just a place to hang out. 



A walk along the busy Periferico (the ring road that winds its way around the outer edges of Mexico City) brings us to the Parque Ecologico.  Built in the early 1990's, the park creates an ecological refuge for many native species and preserves waterways from being filled.  



A quick taxi ride takes us back the el tren ligero, and we're back in the city for the night.  We will return tomorrow for a trajinera tour and see some of the bigger canals in their weekend form.  









Thursday, August 22, 2013

Mexico City - Day 1

Arrival in Mexico City this morning after our redeye flight from Seattle through LAX.  After a memorable experience on the Metro at rush hour (I would have taken photos if I had any room to move my arms), we enjoyed the surprisingly cool morning in the Condesa neighborhood and Parque Mexique.  The former racetrack site leaves rings of three lined streets with broad walkable medians, and a larger park in the center, giving the neighborhood a forested feel.
tree-lined ring road
man-made pond in the park
urban wildlife enjoying the pond
Parque Mexico
I met up with Elias Cattan of Taller 13 Arquitectura Regenerativa and discussed some of his work in revitalizing the hidden waterways of the Valley of Mexico, as well as the frustrations of the slow process that projects like these face in the current political and financial climate.

After checking in with our airbnb hosts, naps were in order and a restful afternoon to prepare for more exploring tomorrow.

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

Atlantic Cities Article on Rebuilding in Flood Zones

A sobering reminder of the costs and political hurdles of changing coastal development.

http://www.theatlanticcities.com/politics/2013/07/flood-rebuild-repeat-are-we-ready-superstorm-sandy-every-other-year/6352/

Friday, July 19, 2013

River walk - Soldotna, AK

From my recent travel to the 49th state.  Erosion control on the Kenai River: the river walk prevents too many footfalls in a sensitive area.

Reading List: Modern Mexico's Standard Guide to the City of Mexico and Vicinity

Found this gem at the the Seattle Public Library: a travel guide from 1902-1903 showing all the highlights of a trip to Mexico City as well as many of the waterways and water infrastructure that was around at the time.

Google book available online

Photo highlights include the old Chapultepec aqueduct on p. 14, la Viga canal on p. 154, various chinampas on p. 156 and 158



New York's complex relationship with its various and extensive waterfronts:


http://nymag.com/news/features/bloomberg-waterfront-2013-7/

Interesting article on unearthing the layers of history on the Mississippi:


http://www.minnpost.com/cityscape/2013/07/water-works-big-plans-make-minneapolis-riverfront-sight-behold